ATTENTION! Miata experts

[gocjgocjgo]

I'm interested in buying a first generation mazda miata and have a few questions for anyone who owns or has owned a miata.

What are some common mechanical and cosmetic problems?
Is there a large variety of aftermarket parts available?
What engine is best for turbo? 1.6L or 1.8L? Or is it even worth boosting?
How much should I expect to spend or offer on a perfect condition miata?
Can a 5'11" 250lb guy fit in a miata comfortably?
Is there anything else I should know? Pros/Cons?

And please don't tell me to "research" or "google" or "look up forums" etc. That I know.

Thanks.

[backalleyracer]

1. Common mechanical problems ? none

probably the only thing to look out for is the crank, if, when the car is on, you can see the crank pully wobbling, the engine needs to be pulled. Otherwise, nothing happens to these things.

2. Large variety is an understatement, these are probably the most used race car in the world. Everything under the sun has been done, and there are a lot of manufactures that make aftermarket products, some for racing, some for looking cool. (drifting)

3. Both engines are great for turbo, which, btw, miata motors love boost. They are low compression to begin with, and can handle up to about 190whp on a completely stock motor.

4. perfect condition miata, with R package ? around 4k

5. I am 6'3 and 170, I fit fine

6. Planning to drift ?

Pro's - light weight, extremely reliable, cheap.

Con's - low steering angle, small wheel base makes it not beginner friendly

If you get a 1.6 model, they have diffs that must be upgraded to the 1.8 rear end to make any use of it before breaking, the 1.6 rear end is weak.

[gocjgocjgo]

1.8L it is then. I believe they came out on the 94 and newer models. Is there a particular year I should stay away from. Like recalls and ish?

[1slowna6]

aaron speaks the truth.
93 is the best 1.6 platform and 94 is the best 1.8 platform.
i think most "miata people" would say the same.

taken straight from roadsterdrift.com

So I have been roaming this forum since the old days. I have seen tons of cars pass and fail. I have driven and built several Miatas. This is my idea of the drift friendly Miata on 2 different budgets. Both are NA bodies. Based on a $2000 buying price, so if you find one cheaper it will be less. You can obviously find better deals on most of this stuff anyways.

SO BEFORE YOU GO BUYING SOME OTHER STUFF TO GO DRIFTING. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE WHAT YOU NEED FIRST!


The 4K drift Miata. This car will be perfect for anyone learning. You should be able to find a way to link every track and be competitive. I have linked large oval tracks with 95 hp... This is where you should start!

Car - 2000

Welded Diff - 100 (Step up to a 1.8 Torsen Swap + 300 to 400)

Seat (bucket type)- 200

Knuckles - 225

Roll bar (real one) - 350

Coilovers - 950

Sportmax or w/e - 600

The 8K miata. This is your pro ready car. Would be competitive in just about everything. Greddy set up/or similar on 1.8L at 12-14 psi or so will make an honest 200-240 wheel.

Car - 2000

Seat (bucket type)- 200

1.8 Swap - 300 (BUY A LEGITIMATE DIFFERENTIAL +800)

Knuckles - 225

Roll cage (fd legal)- 1000

Coilovers - 950

Sportmax or w/e - 600

Greddy turbo 14psi- 1300

330cc injectors, 323 gtx, mx6 turbo work too - 200

Clutch - 350

Intercooler/pipes - 300

safc/emanage - 300

sway bars - 300

[backalleyracer]

All years are friendly, no bad years for miatas. It probably sounds like a joke, but these really are factory race cars. You can adjust all manners of camber, toe, and caster with the stock suspension.  Double wish boned design which or exactly the same as the FD, brakes that don't give out on the track and a balanced chassis makes it NP wonder why so many race these, it had its own race series for a reason.

[gocjgocjgo]

I was going through my old car magazines last night and found this old issue of Project Car Tuner No. 3 that featured a 91 Mazda Miata with a 1.6L engine with the factory option Package B, which included cruise control, power windows, ABS, and LSD. It dynoed at 95.11 HP and 87.22 lb-ft of torque using a Zero 1000 USA Dyno Jet. So they installed:

Racing Beat Ultra ignition wires
NGK Iridium spark plugs
5Zigen Miracle fire exhaust
5Zigen Header
K&N Air Filter
Spec stage 1 clutch kit with light weight flywheel

I was disappointed with the numbers... After they invested $2,786.60 it dynoed at 103.41 HP and 92.55 lb-ft of torque...

[1slowna6]

91 had the vlsd option. miata vlsd sucks. worse than 240 vlsd.
in 94 to introduced a new carrier known as the torsen limited slip.
if you're planning on staying n/a adding a full exhaust isn't going to do anything for you.
besides the 5zigen header is 500 and the cat back is 1000.

this car isn't for everyone. maybe sleep on it for a while lol.

[backalleyracer]

if all you care about is power, get something else. If you want to be able to our corner anything, pick one up

[nine]

come buy mine 4000
95 with stock torsen diff(LSD)
1.8 strong
steering knuckles for more angle
coilovers
harddog roll bar
2005 glass soft top
bride seat
momo steering wheel w/ nrg disconnect
clean as hell interior
and new hankooks to throw in the deal.

[gocjgocjgo]

Royce i just woke up from that relaxing nap you advised me to do wuahahaha. I understand that these Miatas are underpowered but can corner like a *****. I was just posting my findings and my disappointment on my last post. I also found another article from Import Tuners power pages. Same outcome with the basic bolt-ons. So I'v been doing some research on the bell engineering turbo kits. If you have any information on them please don't hesitate to inform me.

BTW: I'm looking to daily drive a turbo Miata because keeping it NA just wont cut it. 200HP is what im aiming for.

@nine: thanks for the offer, unfortunately i dont have 4k on me at the moment and it looks like you got yours drift ready, im looking towards daily driving.

[1slowna6]

http://www.miataturbo.net/showthread.php?t=10821

those begi kits are pretty expensive.
the cheapest way to go would be to do it yourself.
get a good clutch. 400 give or take.
get the diff, 94-97s came with 4.10 tosen. i think the torsen carrier and stubs go for like 400.
megan manifold and downpipe. 300.
t25 or t28. 300?
rx7 460cc injectors (plug and play) probably dirt cheap on vegasrotary.
megasquirt plug and play stand alone plus tune. 600+400.
this will throw down 200+

[nine]

GOGO: its all good, its a super fun car. Just get a 1.8 so you don't have to swap it later. Also torsen diffs are bad ass with some coilovers and roll bar to stiffin it up, you can corner like a mother!

ps. listen to royce and aaron cause they have owned theirs longer. And Danny if he chimes in cause he has his NA's down.

But I love mine from the first test drive were it drifted around the corner and I said I am buying this car. And they are not gay cars, or girl cars...they are go karts you can drive on the street!!

[DannyGeorge]

any year is good to boost. Id try everytime to get a 1.8 of course for the lil stuff like diff/brakes/lil better power till you boost. But wouldnt have any affect if the right car popped up. Id spend the money up front on a good base car.

turbo kit diy is the way to go. buy parts on deals when they pop up and a solid 200whp car can be had for under 2k really.  These are the best cars for the money for overall fun factor. So many time's can you just beat on the car all day and get so many smiles. Oh yeh while your beating on it your still getting almost 30mpg.lol

Id try to steer people away from them for drift so there isnt to many out there. If all you wanna do is drift then buy a 240. If trackdays and other longterm use will be had then miata all day.

[<ACE>]

keep it easy and cheap and just put an SR in it!

[s13yaobling]

lol thats a mean looking miata.