OrangeMan510
Posts: 223
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« Reply #90 on: August 01, 2010, 03:39:09 PM » |
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As well as the small shavings thats perfectly normal in any diff (especially new) hints the magnetic drain plug that comes on them. Now if there is buring on the gears real bad than yeah thats bad, or if a f*&king tooth is missing lol you might want to take it to a dentist figuratively speaking.... I would say dont fret its normal for the sounds unless its just straight horrible sounding like loud loud
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DDS Performance
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OrangeMan510
Posts: 223
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« Reply #91 on: August 01, 2010, 03:40:30 PM » |
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Sounds good GL btw  |
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DDS Performance
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F24cS13
Posts: 298
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« Reply #92 on: August 02, 2010, 02:47:44 AM » |
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Another thing i forgot to mention, there was a little bit of fluid around the left side of the diff/axle area....Could there be a bad seal inside the diff?
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Dook-E
Vegasdrift
Posts: 1563
Because Drift Car
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« Reply #93 on: August 02, 2010, 09:50:09 AM » |
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it's leaking from the area where the output shaft enters the diff? if so then it's probably a bad seal.
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F24cS13
Posts: 298
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« Reply #94 on: August 02, 2010, 04:32:10 PM » |
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Is thats the case, is this a simple solution to fix??
And Im not 100% of what i have....The car is a 5 lug conversion and the pumpkin says V3 on the outside of it. Anybody know which diff this is? and where to get the seals?
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Dook-E
Vegasdrift
Posts: 1563
Because Drift Car
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« Reply #95 on: August 02, 2010, 05:07:08 PM » |
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i believe the seals are the same between models. the OD of the S13 and S14 output shafts is the same.
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F24cS13
Posts: 298
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« Reply #96 on: August 02, 2010, 05:52:38 PM » |
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So any nissan dealer then?? Thanks for the help dook-e and orangeman!
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F24cS13
Posts: 298
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« Reply #97 on: August 04, 2010, 08:04:22 PM » |
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Ive googled the shit out of DIY for diff removal etc...Im trying to take the input shafts out to inspect/replace the seals. Then remove the diff.. Any help guys?  New painted cover  New pistons on.......FINALLY!!  Fresh honed cylinder walls    |
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« Last Edit: August 04, 2010, 08:20:32 PM by F20CS13 »
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Dook-E
Vegasdrift
Posts: 1563
Because Drift Car
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« Reply #98 on: August 04, 2010, 09:56:31 PM » |
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Ive googled the shit out of DIY for diff removal etc...Im trying to take the input shafts out to inspect/replace the seals. Then remove the diff..
Any help guys?
In order to change the seals you should only have to remove the output shafts. What I always did was have one person hammer it with a lady finger while I pryed at the opposite side of the same output shaft with a big ass/strong flathead screwdriver. I'm sure there is a better way, like a slide hammer, but this always seemed to work for me. If you make a quick trip to Home Depot or Lowes you should be able to fabricate your own slide hammer that would work well enough to get the job done. You would be able to keep it for future use too. |
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F24cS13
Posts: 298
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« Reply #99 on: August 05, 2010, 01:44:17 AM » |
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Thanks for the help, this is all pretty new to me, and i figured there was more to it then taking out the 4 bolts and the 2 U shaped brackets. Ill call a friend tomorrow and get a hand with this. Thanks again!
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F24cS13
Posts: 298
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« Reply #100 on: August 07, 2010, 03:47:22 PM » |
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I dont know what the name of the part im trying to tq down, i found a list of the diff tq specs but cant find what its called that i need to tq down..
Heres the list i found
•Drive Pinion Flange Nut: 137-217 (186-294)
•Drive Shaft-To-Pinion Flange Bolts: 29-33 (39-45)
•Rear Cover Bolts: 29-36 (39-49)
•Rear Cover-To-Mount Nut:
◦R200V: 65-87 (88-118)
◦R200: 32-41 (43-55)
•Ring Gear Bolts: (Apply Loctite on bolt threads. Tighten in crisscross pattern)
◦R200: 98-112 (132-152)
◦R200V: 130-145 (176-197)
•Side Bearing Cap Bolts: 65-72 (88-98) ---i think this is it...not sure
•Side Flange-To-Axle Shaft: 25-33 (34-45)
•Wheel Hub Lock Nut: 152-203 (206-275)
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« Last Edit: August 07, 2010, 07:04:40 PM by F20CS13 »
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F24cS13
Posts: 298
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« Reply #101 on: August 11, 2010, 12:52:09 PM » |
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Valve cover stripped of powder coating and paint....Painting SHOULD start today, not quite sure, waiting on a phone call..  |
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Robert
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« Reply #102 on: August 11, 2010, 05:41:11 PM » |
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no more crinkle red??  |
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F24cS13
Posts: 298
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« Reply #103 on: August 11, 2010, 10:58:17 PM » |
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No not anymore  ..............Ive had a few wrinkled valve covers and wanted to go with a nice smooth gloss look this time... Update time.. Pistons are in!!!..everything went in nice and smooth, heading out now to bolt rods to crank, then assemble the rest of the bottom end ie;oil pan, girdle, oil pump. GF lost my memory card for my camera so the pics will be from the blackberry for a day or so, apologies on the quality.  |
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« Last Edit: August 12, 2010, 04:55:21 AM by F20CS13 »
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F24cS13
Posts: 298
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« Reply #104 on: August 18, 2010, 11:51:46 PM » |
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