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Author Topic: Slick's KA-T  (Read 32915 times)
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bigt92604
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« Reply #210 on: March 02, 2010, 10:04:54 AM »

What u doing with your old seat, and can u have that guy stop by my place and bring me a seat lol, looks sick man I love the drive line looks clean, I want to use them to make my one pice when I switch up rears what Did they charge u for that?
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bigt92604
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« Reply #211 on: March 02, 2010, 10:05:18 AM »

What u doing with your old seat, and can u have that guy stop by my place and bring me a seat lol, looks sick man I love the drive line looks clean, I want to use them to make my one pice when I switch up rears what Did they charge u for that?
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ak_slick
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« Reply #212 on: March 02, 2010, 03:37:55 PM »

What u doing with your old seat, and can u have that guy stop by my place and bring me a seat lol, looks sick man I love the drive line looks clean, I want to use them to make my one pice when I switch up rears what Did they charge u for that?

Old seats are getting sold. Sure hit him up... he is righthand180sx on here. His name is Pat and he is the man. The drive shaft cost me $380.
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bigt92604
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« Reply #213 on: March 02, 2010, 05:29:45 PM »

How much for your old seats?? 380 is prety cheap
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Robert
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« Reply #214 on: March 02, 2010, 06:05:27 PM »

that doesnt sound that cheap
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Melonburst
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« Reply #215 on: March 02, 2010, 07:11:02 PM »

Were are you sourcing the trans from Dave? I mean the RB25 trannies I get are pretty expensive.
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ak_slick
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« Reply #216 on: March 02, 2010, 08:43:33 PM »

Were are you sourcing the trans from Dave? I mean the RB25 trannies I get are pretty expensive.

I got the transmission out of a 90 NA 300zx. It was free to me as I parted out the entire car. The RB26 transmissions are cheap because no one uses them... for a 240sx you would have to cut out a lot of the transmission tunnel fabricate a front drive shaft, differential, and cv axles to run the awd rb trans.  I found mine on Zilvia for $150.

How much for your old seats??
Already have a buyer lined up. Please pm me about buying old parts. I would like to keep the build thread narrowed down to questions and comments related to the build for ease of people finding information.

that doesnt sound that cheap
I thought it seemed a little steep (Mazworks charges $320 plus shipping for their drive shaft) but the quality is top notch and I don't have to pay shipping. They put me up to the larger size U-joints and it is fully rebuild-able so if for some reason I ever manage to do any damage to them it will only cost about $35 to rebuild it in the garage.  I decided it a better option to go with Dan's since they are local and I have experience with them and their work. Plus it gets to me faster (1.5 day turn around time for me)

But my total for the trans swap if you don't count my labor.

RB26 Bell Housing $150
Z32 Trans           $0
Drive shaft          $380
Total                  $530

Puts me about $500 ahead of where I would be if I went with a Mazworks kit, granted this hybrid isn't for everyone.
« Last Edit: March 02, 2010, 08:47:05 PM by ak_slick » Logged

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« Reply #217 on: March 02, 2010, 11:05:16 PM »

nice work dave let the haters hate on. lol 
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« Reply #218 on: March 03, 2010, 12:08:29 AM »

yeah, overall im sure you saved a ton of money! i was just referring to the driveshaft itself, but cant beat the better turnaround especially if its someone you have dealt with before.


nice work dave let the haters hate on. lol 
i didnt notice any hate in this thread, what do you mean?
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ak_slick
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« Reply #219 on: March 03, 2010, 02:30:15 AM »

Doesn't matter... small update tonight. No pics. sorry.

Got off work way late. Managed to get the right bolts for the drive shaft and bolted it up along with snagging some steel from work for me to create a jack point with.

Got the Driver seat removed, started to put the Sparco in and realized I have to adjust where the mounts sit and didn't want to start the fabrications so late so I opted to go to sleep so I can get all my work done with hopes of taking Thursday/Friday off. Oil filter and Accusump oil line fittings came in (yay).

One more small order from summit and I should have most everything assembled... seems like the never ending list at times. Just gotta take it one step at a time.
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« Reply #220 on: March 03, 2010, 09:56:49 PM »

Wait a second who is hating?

Doesn't the mazworks kit run like 1300 once you pay for all the shipping and bullshit? Plus you got a drive shaft with serviceable u-joints so I'd say your pretty far ahead of the game! How did the input shaft sit? Also was the diameter the same as the ka one?

I'm gonna buy up a bunch of bellhousings and start selling conversion kits! Gonna make bank! lol... It's shitty that I never got to do this but hey it's cool that you got to save some dough! I originally had the idea to do a ka-t z32 since it would be stupid amounts of easy... No custom drive shaft or trans mount. Never happened because z32's suck but I've always wanted to do it.
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ak_slick
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« Reply #221 on: March 04, 2010, 02:09:46 AM »

Doesn't the mazworks kit run like 1300 once you pay for all the shipping and bullshit? Plus you got a drive shaft with serviceable u-joints so I'd say your pretty far ahead of the game! How did the input shaft sit? Also was the diameter the same as the ka one?

I'm gonna buy up a bunch of bellhousings and start selling conversion kits! Gonna make bank!

Thanks again for the tip Chris.

Input shaft sits perfectly... I had them make it tight. I will take a picture of it tomorrow. If you start making those kits I will give you specs to make a better shifter bracket that won't require someone to modify their transmission tunnel like I did.

And yes the service-able u-joints are bomb! Service-able parts for the win. I would have saved so much money by this time in the game if I just started paying the little extra for rebuildable parts in the beginning.

On to tonights update... First off sorry about the fuzzy pictures... I will try and take some cleaner ones in the future.

Started out the evening wanting to make my car easier to jack up... Having seen a similar thing on a car at FD I went to my local pile of metal remnants and salvaged some useful material.


Ended up going with the green to make it easy to spot under the bumper


How it sits... just low enough to spot easily if you are looking for it, not too low that it scrapes on everything.


Got the seat in... turns out it would mount to my old rails perfectly if I just flipped one around. Forgot to take a picture of the flipped rail. I will tomorrow.


Cody Volunteered to paint my rims... and I know powder coating looks soo much better but it is also soo much more expensive. Around $50 a rim when I have spent $10 on paint for all 8 rims so far and no one notices the chips when they are spinning.
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« Reply #222 on: March 04, 2010, 07:20:06 PM »

easy access lift point? like!
i was planning on doing one of these as well, wonderful idea.
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« Reply #223 on: March 05, 2010, 12:35:08 PM »

i agree...^^^^^
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ak_slick
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« Reply #224 on: March 05, 2010, 05:12:22 PM »

Thanks Guys... I noticed it flexes a little bit but not enough to worry about and not the bars the bumper itself.

First off. Chris here is your requested photo of the how the drive shaft splines sit. The flange is about 1" back which is okay I think. I am thinking about having them make it a little bit longer in the future.


Buckey helped me bled the honda slave cylinder... man this is one very stock feeling clutch the honda slave is larger diameter which gives it a great feel with the upgraded pressure plate. Also the old braided clutch line looks like it was made to be there.


Started to mock up and mount all of the oil system. The is an oil filter on the frame rail, oil cooler in front of the passenger wheel well, and the accusump is nicely tucked away in the nismo power brace below the fans. Measuring for the lines and figuring out what fittings I need.

Oil Cooler


Accusump



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